This page is usually ‘lock, stock and barrel’ about Northern Ireland - its past, its people and its places.
This page is usually ‘lock, stock and barrel’ about Northern Ireland - its past, its people and its places.
Local connections with other countries are sometimes recounted here too, or our associations with lonely locations at ‘the back of beyond’.
Today Roamer isn’t giving beautiful Ulster ‘the cold shoulder’ but he has been ‘caught red handed’ in Scotland!
All those sayings were coined and popularised by Sir Walter Scott, Scotland’s iconic poet, novelist, ballad-collector and author of historic masterpieces like Rob Roy, Waverley and The Lady of the Lake!
Roamer recently received a kind invitation from the Visit Scotland organisation headlined Borders Railway Choo Chooses Tourism.
Their endearingly ‘tongue in cheek’ (another Scott-ism!) invitation announced the debut this coming Sunday of Scotland’s newest scenic railway and offered me a car-drive preview “into one of Europe’s most unspoilt regions...beautiful countryside famous for inspiring Sir Walter Scott.”
Britain’s longest new domestic railway line in over a century will be officially opened by Her Majesty The Queen next Wednesday, the day that she becomes our longest serving monarch.
The Queen will be joined by First Minister Nicola Sturgeon for the historic steam journey.
Special steam-trips are available for the public too, but the approximately £300 million, 30-mile, hop-on hop-off route with 10 stops and eight new stations will mostly be serviced by half-hourly diesel trains.
The 55-minute journey from Edinburgh to Tweedbank, depending on where you embark, can start at Waverley Station opened in 1854, its name confirming the measure of Scott’s influence in his native land.
“My heart clings to the place I have created,” Sir Walter said of his awesomely beautiful, stone-and-lime, Tweed-side Abbotsford home – “the Delilah” of his imagination.
On my way to Sir Walter’s heavenly gardens and strikingly beautiful rooms bulging with original artefacts, I visited a less lyrical concept in stone that clings to the top of another architectural wonder – Melrose Abbey’s bagpipe-playing pig!
“They believed it kept evil spirits away in the 1600s,” one of the Cistercian Abbey’s attendants told me, “bagpipes were made from pigs’ stomachs in those days.”
The carved-stone pig vied for height, space and tourists’ cameras with sculpted demons, dancing hobgoblins and ghostly faces atop the soaring walls of the rose-stoned Abbey church.
The multi-arched building with its powerful stone buttresses, vaults and piers, dates almost entirely from its reconstruction following a devastating raid by Richard II’s army in 1385.
Regarded as one of the marvels of medieval church architecture anywhere in the UK, the vast, fascinating Abbey also contains Robert the Bruce’s heart, buried there in 1331; one of Scotland’s earliest pairs of reading glasses and some ancient portable urinals that were concealed under the monks’ robes for use during lengthy devotions.
Cistercians were hard-working, strictly vegetarian, ruled by severe asceticism.
“Our food is scanty, our drink is from the stream, under our tired limbs there is but a hard mat,” quilled Melrose’s Abbot Aelred of Rievaulx in the mid-1100s.
He should have booked into the Roxburghe Hotel near a village called Heiton by Kelso!
Dating from the 12th century, the hotel is a beautiful, stately, home-from-home with picture-postcard gardens, prime fishing rivers, and a championship golf course.
Open, log-burning fireplaces set around with period furniture are framed with tall bookcases of old tomes.
My giant four-poster bed would have soothed Abbot Aelred’s tired limbs, with ample room for most of his mat-weary monks too!
Whilst dietary requests were invited, my dinner-order in the hotel’s Chez Roux restaurant (Albert Roux of Le Gavroche) most definitely wasn’t 12th century Cistercian!
It began with hand rolled crab tortellini in creamy crab and brandy bisque, followed by Riesling wine-marinated breast of Guinea Fowl with crispy Serrano ham and foraged Scottish girolles (mushrooms).
Next came lightest-of-light caramelised lemon tart with raspberry sorbet prior to a sunset-evening’s round of croquet in the shade of a lush spreading chestnut.
Amidst such culinary, architectural and natural splendour, my short sojourn was homely and relaxed, stirring some similar senses included in Abbot Aelred’s description of Melrose Abbey “Everywhere peace, everywhere serenity, and a marvellous freedom from the tumult of the world.”
The locally-sourced traditional Scottish ingredients used by Chez Roux were succulently evident at breakfast; foraged mushrooms and haggis, with bacon and sausages from pigs that never played, but undoubtedly heard, bagpipes!
Visit Scotland’s regional director Paula McDonald told me that the new railway journey “isn’t just a one-trip opportunity. Every time you come, it will reveal something else to you.” Paula stressed the proximity of countless visitor attractions, easily accessed by local buses, good roads, bicycle routes and tree-clad country walks.
In two intriguing days Roamer also visited Sir Walter Scott’s and Field Marshall Douglas Haig’s graves in ancient Dryburgh Abbey; the 1,300-year-old carved ‘rock of ages’ outside Mary Queen of Scots house in Jedburgh, where a scrap of silk said to come from the dress that she wore on the morning of her execution is on display, and Scott’s View where Sir Walter often stopped to gaze on the awe-inspiring panorama. His funeral cortege’s horses reportedly paused there of their own accord “to allow their master a last look” at the Border’s landscape.
Roamer will take Visit Scotland’s advice and ‘strain at the leash’ (a concluding Scott-ism!) to return to these wondrous places, and many more, on the new Borders Railway route.
For more information on holidaying in Scotland go to: www.visitscotland.com and for the new Borders Railway see www.visitscotland.com/bordersrailway and www.bordersrailway.co.uk