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An evening in a wine’drinker’s paradise with you

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I AM saddened to report that it is a particularly dark and dreary evening as I write to you.

But don’t let that put you off. I have some terrific treats in store for those tipplers who are prepared to brave the elements and to stick with me. It’s the kind of evening, folks, that confirms winter is most definitely here. Although, on reflection, I suppose it might just as easily be spring. One could also possibly argue that it’s quite autumnal or even, knowing what we know now, having lived through 2012, one of our more gruesome summer evenings. What you might conclude by calling very modern Irish weather. Nothing at all like the magical evenings of our childhood. Remember them?

A harsh, cold wind is almost, but not quite, howling like a wounded beast while a squally rain fitfully lashes itself against the ancient walls of my lovely home, Rose Cottage,

where I am huddled over my laptop, wrapped in my dressing gown for warmth, looking forlornly out the window of my study to where the Atlantic should be, vaguely hoping for inspiration, and though I can hear its dull roar, the ocean remains unseen, utterly obscured by the horrors of this terrible night.

Tonight is indeed a night for hearty, meaty casseroles and a glass or two of something sombre, brawny, brooding and intense. Thankfully, my delightful wife, the redoubtable Madame G., has not disappointed with the food, cooking a delicious boeuf bourgignon, which I have carefully matched with today’s WINE OF THE WEEK, the delicately spiced, superbly rounded and impressively smooth 2010 Crow’s Fountain Shiraz Merlot Pinotage (reduced to £6.99 from £7.99 at M&S until November 25). Full-bodied, delightfully dry and yet quite easy-drinking, this opulently rich, plummy South African drop has a pleasing garnet colour, a bouquet that suggests luscious berries and herbs while the palate has the kind of perfectly-judged mix of spice and fruit that might remind you of Grandma’s Christmas cake.

Ah, or perhaps bah, Christmas! The darkness at the epicentre of winter’s long tunnel.That special time of year when we eat too much, drink too much, spend too much money, disgrace ourselves at the office party and then fall out with our nearest and dearest at home. So, to help you with the drinking part, I have sourced your very own Christmas Survival Kit. From the Wine Society (visit www.thewinesociety.com or telephone 01438-741177), this 15-bottle case contains a selection of excellent red and white wines plus port, sherry, gin and malt whiskey at a very reasonable £125. Smaller cases are available for humbug merchants though, if you’re planning any entertaining, the big one is certainly worth checking out.

While browsing through the Wine Society’s offerings, I was also very pleased to happen upon the supple, mellow and exuberantly juicy 2008 Wine Society Rioja Crianza (currently available at £6.95). Tangy, soft and typically leathery fruit flavours are nicely enhanced by vanilla aromatics, sweet tannins and gentle spices while a hint of oak enriches its magnificently lengthy, lingering finish. It was an ideal accompaniment to the roast chicken with Jerusalem artichokes, shallots, lemon and herbs that I rustled up for supper last Sunday evening.

As I sip upon my glass of wine tonight, I find myself in an unusually contemplative mood. Life, the seasons, Christmas, they all must happen, pass and may never return. And, despite what the naysayers and the begrudgers may preach, that’s not necessarily a bad thing. We’ll be reunited with our loved ones on Zion’s holy hill; yes, one day, one day we will! I’ll wager we can all raise a glass to that, whichever way the shrill, icy winds of winter may blow. O, to be sharing an evening in Paradise with you! Yes, it’s great weather to be indoors with a bottle and my baby. Till next week, tipplers, sante!


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